Touch Dubbing Wire

[DUBBN]

First off, I am still home sick with the flu. The Nazi (my wife) demanded I stay home one more day. I was reading some other posts here on the forum about lightly touch dubbing the rib (thread) of some patterns. Along these lines I am wanting to know:

1. Does anyone ever touch dub the wire that is used to rib their patterns?

2. If you touchdub the wire is the dubbing durable (stay in place)?

Ofcourse you already know that I will try this new (to me) method. There is one insect, and one stage of that insect I am trying to imitate with a flymph. It is the Western Green Drake Nymph.

Picture from http://www.troutnut.com/


From April till mid May, or when runoff hits this bug seems to be the main attraction to the trout in every river system that I fish. Regardless if it is a Freestone river or tailwater. I have no problem duplicating the insect with nymphs, but I want the satisfaction of fooling the fish with Soft Hackles and Flymphs.

I am not looking for patterns, as I have a couple ideas for those rolling around in my brain already. The bug in question changes in coloration dramatically from river to river. It can be a Reddish Brown on the Frying Pan River, to a medium Olive on the Roaring Fork, to an Olive/Black on the Gunnison, so one pattern will not work on all. The Western Green Drake is the largest member of the Mayfly family that I know of on my waters, and seems to be giving me the most grief in duplicating with SH's. After reading the posts about touchdubbing the ribbing material of certain patterns, then looking at the pronounced gills on the abdomen of the Western Green Drake Nymph? Well, I am sure you can see where I am going with this. If I have to I will rib with a thread or heavy cord, but I would appreciate (from anybody) your experiences with wire that has been touchdubbed.

Thanks so much in advance,

Wayne

[Mike Connor]

You can touch dub wire, but you need to use a waterproof glue on a single wire. You can't twist a single wire to lock the dubbing down. The technique is similar to this;

http://www.wildfisher.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=4685.0

Stretch the wire you want to "dub", run it through the glue ( or brush the glue on to it), and then either "dip" it in very finely chopped dubbing or "touch dub" it. Of course you can also use very fine wire and twist the dubbing into a"dubbing brush". This also works using a doubled wire as a "dubbing loop". If you only glue one "side" of the wire, you only get dubbing on one side.

http://flyguys.net/blog/fly-patterns/to ... rush-maker

http://tarheelflyfishing.forumotion.com ... -table-diy

http://hipwader.com/2007/dubbing-brush-nymph

http://globalflyfisher.com/reviews/tyin ... bingblock/

Another method is to use fine copper wire looped around a small headless nail in a block of wood. Which is then referred to as a “dubbing block”. The fur is placed on one strand of the wire, the other strand of wire folded over and pulled tight, and the whole thing is twisted together to form a furry rope, this can be tied in and wound like thread, and the wire ribbing is then integrated! This works best on larger flies, as it is really too bulky for small flies. One may of course use thread for this as well.



Yet another method is to chop up the fur etc. very finely, and taking a good pinch of it touch the waxed thread lightly with this pinch. One may also simply use a paper glue stick for this. It is easier, quicker, and more effective than using tacky wax.This makes a very fine hairy translucent body. The most effective flies are usually those which are tied very sparsely indeed, and where the dubbing is so sparse that the silk shines through underneath the dubbing. There are some exceptions to this though.

If you want to dub a single strand of wire, then you need good tacky waterproof glue on the wire. Using wax or water based glue will work to an extent but the wire will not lock dubbing down like thread will, and most will then fall off.

Using the "glymph" technique It is easy to solve a number of problems. One can make "two tone" ( light underneath, dark on top) nymphs and similar stuff very easily. Also, "profiles" are easier to fabricate. The result of ten minutes messing about with various dubbings;



Of course, these flies are not as "neat" as some others, although one can produce quite consistent and "neat" examples with a little practice, but the fish don´t care! Indeed often they prefer the scruffy ones! It´s not a bug, it´s a feature!

If you want gills on wire along the side of the nymph abdomen, tie in three lengths of wire at the tail, one on each side. Glue the wire and dub it. ( Or you can use thread) Take the wires straight up along the sides of the abdomen and tie off. Use the third wire to rib the abdomen.

TL
MC

[Mike Connor]

If you want gills on wire along the side of the nymph abdomen, tie in three lengths of wire at the tail, one on each side. Glue the wire and dub it. ( Or you can use thread) Take the wires straight up along the sides of the abdomen and tie off. Use the third wire to rib the abdomen.

This also works for nymphs with gills along the top front of the abdomen. Dub a piece of wire, tie it in where the gills begin, take it up to the wing case, and tie off. Rib the abdomen as normal.

[DUBBN]

If you want gills on wire along the side of the nymph abdomen, tie in three lengths of wire at the tail, one on each side. Glue the wire and dub it. ( Or you can use thread) Take the wires straight up along the sides of the abdomen and tie off. Use the third wire to rib the abdomen.

This also works for nymphs with gills along the top front of the abdomen. Dub a piece of wire, tie it in where the gills begin, take it up to the wing case, and tie off. Rib the abdomen as normal.

Your information is good. My application today is poor.


I am going to abandon the wire approach, and continue with thread. After many trys so far this morning, I am completely frustrated. On two flys in a row I realized I had forgotten to tie in my ribbing after I had completed the abdomen. I am going to chalk this up to being under the weather.

You have not given me the answer I am exactly looking for, but you have given me the tools to find it. I have alot of food for thought now, and plenty of time to mull it over. Thank you for your response.

Any other ideas or techniques, from everyone/anyone, are as always greatly appreciated,

Wayne

[kanutripr]

Always happy with new and interesting techniques.

Sorry you're still sick Wayne. Have fun with that! Keep us informed.


Vicki

[letumgo]

Wayne - First off, I hope you feel better soon. Not a fun way to get off work...

You post makes me wish I was next to my vice, to try out some ideas.

[skunkaroo]

We have Western Green Drakes in my neck of the woods. The local species has a broader and more compressed abdomen than the one pictured. I normally opt for a nymph pattern (usually beaded) with a brushed out thorax, but on occasion I do something like Mike suggested, but I use the tips of very fine ostrich pulled up the sides of the thorax and then ribbed with either wire or a fine floss. For the back of the abdomen I usually use scud back over a small strip of tinsel (just for a little flash). Friends often go with just a braided tinsel for the shell back, but I find it's a bit too garish.

Might not be quite what you're after, but I thought I would toss it in as food for thought.

Aaron

[DUBBN]

Thank you Aaron. This is the nymph I have been using for quite a few years.
It's called the Big Bear Baeits. Normally it is tyed in sizes 18-22, but I adapted it to a larger size years ago. I got rid of the TMC200 hook, and replaced it with a 9671 Mustad in sizes 16 and 14, and I tye it Rusty Dun Uni Thread


I dont know why, but my cased caddis pattern works well during the Green Drake emergence as well.



Ostritch tips? Ostritch had crossed my mind, but I thought it too bulky, but tips.... Aaron my man, you may have just earned your keep for the day. Thank you sir.


Ostritch tips (abdomen) and a shorter than normal hen hackle for the collar...I may get this fly under way after all!

[Jim Slattery]

Hi Dubbin,
This Flymph is real easy. We have a good hatch of these at Campfire so I can speak from experience. Sorry no pics at this time but here is the dressing:
Green Drake Thorax Flymph
Hook size 10 dry fly (Daiichi 1180)
Thread: Pearsall's Gossamer Lt Olive
Hackle: Grizzly dry fly ( not super stiff, barring is better than hen hackle) Sized to the total length of the hook , including the eye.
Tail:3 stiff Grizzly wisks same length as the hackle
Body/Thorax: Leisenring spun body a pale olive ( olive with cream and lt grey mixed)
Wind hackle back thru thorax secure with thread to eye.
This fly even works on the "Technical" Henry's Fork fish. Grease the hackle and fish it on the surface or use the Hidy sub surface swing to bulging trout. Also try using the "lift" They all work for me..
Jim

[Mike Connor]

I am going to abandon the wire approach, and continue with thread. After many trys so far this morning, I am completely frustrated. On two flys in a row I realized I had forgotten to tie in my ribbing after I had completed the abdomen. I am going to chalk this up to being under the weather.

Wayne

Always a problem if one is too tired or ill. Seems like a good way to spend some time, but If you are not in good form it can be frustrating.

The ostrich tips work quite well, but are not very robust. Marabou or aftershaft ( Often referred to as "filoplume") also work.

One technique which works well for gills is cut or brushed fibre. Use a fine multi-strand floss or wool in the colour desired for the gills . Tie in straight up both sides of the abdomen. Rib tightly with wire. Brush out with velcro. The technique is the same as this.



Here with just one strand of wool;



This also works with floss etc and is also easy and robust.

I did have some large mayflies dressed like this, but I can't seem to find them right now.

Hope that's clear?

TL
MC