Tying Wax

[DOUGSDEN]

A very interesting thread fellows! Thanks Rex for bringing it up! I also have some "Shuck Wax" spread about the kingdom (my den) and have found that it does harden quite well if left out! The prime culprit is at the base of my pedestal vice! Every once in a while, I roll the mass off of the vice and warm it in a glass of rather warm water! I kneed it and roll back into a ball and place it back on the base!
One thing I have learned is that if you store your waxes in a zip-lock bag and then into a tin or other tight closing container, it stays wonderfully soft and ready for use! The small bit of wax on your first knuckle is a fantastic idea and works great! Thanks Bob!
I need to stretch out and try others as well! Bill and Jim, your formula's sound terrific and will order some soon from each of you! What a great thread!
Dougsden

[NightWatchman]

When I went ice fishing and I wanted to liven up my frozen mousies I’d place a few between my cheek and gum and they would come alive and wiggle for me on the hook. Same with my tying wax. Take a pellet sz pc and place it between your cheek and gum and spend a little time getting your desk together and by then your wax is nice and pliable.

[jcwillow777]

I have several types of wax, but mainly use 621. I started using 721, but found it really stiff in the winter months in Michigan. John Shanner recommend the 721 at a presentation he did several years ago. About a year ago I bought some Bailey's wax, white, cobblers, wax in a tin, and the liquid wax. I haven't tried any of the Bailey's wax yet. I've been storing my wax in a sealed plastic tub. But I keep a pea sized piece of the 621 wax on my dubbing block and tying station. It lasts a long time. I find that it takes very little persuasion, rolling it around between my fingers and thumb, to get the wax soft and tacky. The 721/722 takes much more time to become soft and tacky.

[wsbailey]

The great enemy of waxes that contain any kind of oil is oxidation. Factors that lead to oxidation are moisture, air or even light. Over the years I have striven to make my waxes as stable as possible. Leisenring used lard. Other similar wax recipes used tallow or even spermaceti. These waxes were variously called white, transparent or colourless) (British spelling). I think that Leisenring’s book may have a typo. He uses twice as much beeswax and half as much rosin as Keane et al. This makes a harder wax and so I went with my own formula which is similar to Keene’s. All of these various waxes require that the ingredients be melted, poured into a bucket of water and pulled like taffy. Just pouring the melted ingredients into a mold gives a different result (more waxy, less sticky) result. My wax in a tin is super sticky when soft. I had to experiment with ingredients to make the melting point just high enough to allow it to be hand held but soft with thread friction. Making fly tying waxes is a labor of love because the game is hardly worth the candle. Others use cheaper ingredients and/or less time-consuming methods.

[chugbug]

The great enemy of waxes that contain any kind of oil is oxidation. Factors that lead to oxidation are moisture, air or even light.

So, keeping wax in water in the fridge is out? Cellophane in a dark place? Freezer for the L Harrington Keene White Wax from Gunpowder Tackle?

Thank you Mr Bailey for the wisdom AND the wonderful waxes. I hope you'll keep them flowing and simultaneously not flowing...

[wsbailey]

[/quote]
So, keeping wax in water in the fridge is out? Cellophane in a dark place? Freezer for the L Harrington Keene White Wax from Gunpowder Tackle?
[/quote]

My waxes keep well in zip lock bags in the fridge. I have found that the oil in wax degrades when kept in water.

[paparex]

The great enemy of waxes that contain any kind of oil is oxidation. Factors that lead to oxidation are moisture, air or even light.

Does this mean storage in water is a no-no? My Baileys wax certainly was pliable after I cut a piece off and hand rolled it. No extra heat needed so no water.

I appreciate the input and education of a 73 year old from a. (mostly ) collegial group.

Rex

[wsbailey]

I just took out a pea size piece of white wax that has been submerged for years (I’m always testing). It was perfectly fine. Like new actually. The reason that I don’t keep my wax this way is that it is just easier to get it ready to ship if it’s in its own bag. Plus, I prefer to make it fresh rather than have a large amount made ahead of time.

[wsbailey]

Rex,
If the wax in a tin is 4 to 5 years old; it may be that outer surface has oxidized. When you cut off a piece you get mostly the interior part.

[Ron Eagle Elk]

Aaaaand, thank you Paparex for starting this thread. I'm changing my methods for storing my waxes. Thanks also to the esteemed William Bailey, for his insight.