FLYMPH FORUM

Size 12

I was reading Masters of the Flymph today. Thought I would beef up this pattern.










Gonna read some more Hidy from this book tonight.

Masterful.

The bottom ones are very graphic. Cool and wayneish!

dd

Yummy-looking specimens. Dubbing method, Wayne, please?

Wayne - What model hook did you use? It looks like a Mustad hook, but I can't identify the precise model number/size. As I study the photos more, I see you have used a slightly shorter shank length. Is there a reason? I love the proportions.

I need to reread that book. I first read it on one of my business trips overseas. Great book.

letumgo wrote:Wayne - What model hook did you use? It looks like a Mustad hook, but I can't identify the precise model number/size. As I study the photos more, I see you have used a slightly shorter shank length. Is there a reason? I love the proportions.

I need to reread that book. I first read it on one of my business trips overseas. Great book.

Ray, you are correct. I used a size 12 hook, Mustad 3906, with a lot of dubbing stacked on it . I keep looking at the pattern that I took the photo of in the book. I can not wrap my brain around the patterns of my youth being tyed on such a long hook, nor, having a rib. Oh well, I do know that I have slimmed the body down since I first started tying this pattern. I morphed it in to a more traditional looking pattern in that time. I am trying to make it fatter/bulkier than I tie it now. Believe it or not, it's tough for me to try to bulk it up when I am at the vise. The original pattern really was/is quite ugly, even when tyed by professionals.

If my knee heals in time, I want to use this pattern, and another local old time pattern called the Carson Lake, night fishing some still waters this Fall.

I spent the morning reading Pete Hidy's chapter. There is a lot I disagree with him on, but A LOT that I agree with. Al Troth will be studied tomorrow.

Bill, I used a semi tight noodle to dub the body. I dub in place letting the fur compact under each wrap. It takes 3 to 4 wraps then I move up the hook, next to the previous wraps and start over. It burns through a lot of dubbing, but for me, makes a large buggy fur body that is still some what durable, with out using a rib. If the body looks too ratty when I reach the end, I dub a small tight noodle and go back and tidy the pattern up. Usually the 1/3 portion behind the hackle is all that needs to be cleaned up. I am sure there are better ways to accomplish this task, but it is how I enjoy doing it.

Wayne

Thanks much, Wayne.

Hi Wayne,
Classic material in this post.
Since you are mentioning Pete Hidy in this thread, I thought I'd contribute something of his that is relevant to the flies you are discussing, tying and posting. Here is a line of flies from Pete Hidy's fly wallet that are not exactly like the Chuck Fothergill model in the book that you started from, but related.


Here's another. Most of Pete's mole or muskrat bodies were ribbed with silver, which in this case has turned black. He also tended to blend in hare's face and gray mohair to get the spikes and shagginess that worked for him. Instead of bulking the body with wraps, he liked to add longer mohair strands to the dubbing mix.



It is so interesting how much variety of style there can be in even the simplest fly patterns. Thanks for taking us down this path, Wayne.

Lance

gingerdun wrote:Hi Wayne,
Classic material in this post.
Since you are mentioning Pete Hidy in this thread, I thought I'd contribute something of his that is relevant to the flies you are discussing, tying and posting. Here is a line of flies from Pete Hidy's fly wallet that are not exactly like the Chuck Fothergill model in the book that you started from, but related.
It is so interesting how much variety of style there can be in even the simplest fly patterns. Thanks for taking us down this path, Wayne.

Lance

I have no way of proving this, but, it would not surprise me if the wholesale fly pattern suppliers, changed patterns like your fathers. It makes sense to me and this is why. Spinning fur in silk is time consuming. I doubt the Hardware and Sporting Goods stores would want to pay for such quality patterns. You can't get more basic than hook, thread, tail, dubbing, hackle, done! This technique could be taught easily to a novice and in short order they could crank out durable, fish catching trout patterns. As a youngster Rio Grande Kings, Red Tags, Grey Hackle Red, Grey Hackle Yellows, and flies like the Renegade were the type of patterns I recall.

Fothergill had his own fly shop in Aspen Colorado. I would imagine he tyed or had tyers producing patterns of his liking and to his standards. When I read his recipe for the Muskrat and see the photo of his example, I can see the connection of the pattern I tye (Basic/generic) and the patterns of your fathers (elegant , pleasing to the trout).

In my opinion, your fathers patterns are a standard of quality. They are night and day different than anything I produce, and I mean that as a compliment. His patterns are champagne. My fathers patterns are beer.

Thank you Lance for the response. I enjoy your insights.

Wayne

While visiting Colorado in 1970, I met another flyfisher astream who gave me one of these, identical except he'd used dyed brown mallard flank for the tailing, & it did kill. The fatter bodied versions look like a good match for clinger mayflies. Nice ties.