Fishing a Riffle

[DUBBN]

A couple weeks ago Ron Eagle Elk posted a gorgeous pattern. The pattern was a Starling and Purple.
Late in the thread Roadkill and Ron exchanged info on different techniques and equipment that each one uses to fish a riffle. Adding a wire rib, using a T-14 tip, and using a poly leader were mentioned.

This got me to thinking. How do I sink a team of wets to get them down in a riffle? I honestly could not think of how I did it. I have been stewing over this for two weeks. Then it occurred to me. I was treating the riffle the same as the rest of the river. I would fish a run, then get to the riffle and fish it. With the same patterns I used to fish the run. If the trout were hitting, great for me.

This is the part where I realized I do change my set up to get deeper or go shallow. The Partridge and Yellow has become a HUGE confidence pattern to accomplish this. I tie it with beads, with wire, and without either. While working a run I might change the P&Y a couple times to get a response from the trout. This may take an hour or more to fish the run. Depending on the length of the run, and how soon I get in to trout. When done with the run, and if it emptied into a riffle, I would go right into the riffle and start fishing it with whatever rig I had used to fish the run. I have to say that most of the time the rig used in the run, worked just as well in the riffle. For the times that it did not work as well I would change the P&Y. I would either add or remove the bead. If this didn't get the trout's attention I may add more weight to the rig. This is done multiple ways. The P&Y is tied with plastic, glass, or brass beads. Multiple combinations can be used to sink the pattern. Two ways to get the rig to sink even more is to use a P&Y with a brass bead and a micro split-shot or use the P&Y with another beaded pattern like the Orange Muskrat or a beaded Hen and Purple.

A disclaimer here. When I say "point" fly I mean the pattern farthest away from the rod. There seems to be confusion whenever this term is used. The P&Y is almost always my point fly. This makes it easier to change out depending on the depth I think I want my rig to fish at.

I have tungsten beads, but I only use them on nymphs.

Oh yes, there are times that I slip a bead above a non-beaded pattern. I should start doing this more. I always carry different size and color and material beads with me. I slip the beads up the tippet then attach the fly. The bead rides right up against the pattern.

Hah.... Talk about turning a post in to rambling and mumbling!

[Fishnkilts]

I have the same problem. I'll be fishing away doing well and then coming to a riffle or any different type of section of a river I keep the same flies on thinking if it aint broke, don't fix it.
Your post has opened my eyes to new possibilities and to keep in mind to change up when needed instead of sticking with what I have on the line already.

Thanks Wayne.

[Ron Eagle Elk]

Wayne, I really like it when you ramble and bumble. Lots of good information always spills out. When fishing a riffle I usually use a poly leader or an OPST tip called (ready for this?) the "Riffle". If I'm fishing a team of flies, the point fly is almost always lightly weighted.

[Roadkill]

DUBBN,

Great post, it gets even more involved when you have multiple hatches at the same time. Like mixed mayflies and caddis and trout are taking all over the place and at different depths.

[Flytepath]

I add beads or cones to unweighted flies by slipping the bead on the tippet, tie the fly with a non slip loop knot but leave the tag long. Slide the bead over the loop and pull the tag through to hold the bead in place. Clip the tag.

[DUBBN]

I add beads or cones to unweighted flies by slipping the bead on the tippet, tie the fly with a non slip loop knot but leave the tag long. Slide the bead over the loop and pull the tag through to hold the bead in place. Clip the tag.

I have never noticed the bead moving away from the fly. Either case, it sure makes one little fly extremely versatile.

[Flytepath]

I have seen the bead/cone slide down the tippet a foot dragging down the leader while the fly is still on the surface. Doesn’t slide back until you come tight to the fly. It delays getting the fly to desired depth until it begins a swing. Might not be an issue with small flies and beads but I have seen it with streamers and larger wets.

[DUBBN]

I have seen the bead/cone slide down the tippet a foot dragging down the leader while the fly is still on the surface. Doesn’t slide back until you come tight to the fly. It delays getting the fly to desired depth until it begins a swing. Might not be an issue with small flies and beads but I have seen it with streamers and larger wets.

I will definitely take your word for it.

[ronr]

I think the old sliding bead technique is an old bass fishing trick... using a bullet weight above the worm and letting it slide as it moves along the bottom...sure works with a plastic worm on bass... should work on trout.

[DUBBN]

I think the old sliding bead technique is an old bass fishing trick... using a bullet weight above the worm and letting it slide as it moves along the bottom...sure works with a plastic worm on bass... should work on trout.

Funny this thread took a turn to a sliding bead.

I have been using them since the first beads showed up at my local flyshop in the 80's. The instructions on the package clearly read, "slide up the line, then attach fly". That was so long ago, the thought of adding the bead to the hook hadn't even been thought of yet.

God, I'm old.